Wednesday, June 11, 2008

infine

la maggior parte dei favolosi giorni

i admit i changed the original title of this post simply because it has taken me so long to get to it. i had some information that i really wanted to include in it that i kept forgetting to ask Bill for. i had lunch with my new friend from Italy (Laura) who lives in Bend (a great perk of group travel!) and she quickly emailed the info i wanted to include! so finally, this post begins. bye the way if you'd like to translate any of my titles.... (or anything else) no, i do not know italian now, i use this site.

i forewarn you ahead of time. this is going to be a very long post, because.... although i would say there was no bad day no day that was better than another this to me was in rich experience and relation a fabulous day. i have so may photos i want to share... it's gonna be a long one, sorry just relieving Tuscany yet once again....

after a very long drive once again into, yet even deeper, into Tuscany we arrived at the farmhouse of a relative of Francesco. Sinibaldo Truffaldi, his wife was Daniela, his son (the quiet one) was Ameliano, his daughter was Francesco, who was married to Lorenzo who is the nephew of Francesco (Bill's new friend and one of our tour guides/driver...) (got all that).



the farmhouse was quite new but very simple. a two room home in which they had completely cleaned out and made comfortable to accommodate our visit. the visit of 'the americanos.' the hospitality of this family was overwhelming and humbling.


Sinibaldo Truffaldi is a shepherd and a poet (author).

this is his wife and her dear neighbor working away at our meal.

francesca is reading to us from her father's book. she is telling us how it is tradition for shepherds to be poets also. simply because as they are farming and shepherding they are overcome with the beauty of creation and are moved to put it to words.



Sinibaldo and his wife was Daniela believe fully in living off of their land and that is exactly how they walk this earth. it's also what they shared with us for an entire day. it was so fantastic. slave to fashion and modern things that i am... i often feel i was born in the wrong century. i loved the simple yet so rich life they live!

this pail of milk was sitting in the front room when we arrived. they had milked the sheep that a.m.


for our use to learn to make cheese. Sinibaldo begins the process for us, teaching us along the way exactly what it is he is doing.



Bill is quick to take over and get in touch with the ancestors he has felt so deeply all week.


once the cheese is hand churned to a very fine consistency (like curds n whey) we begin the very long task of pressing it into the rounds. it is a very time consuming process, where you attempt to get every last bit of moisture and air OUT.



the first round of cheese that we made will go into the cellar in hopes to look like one of these tasty delight, someday...


the second round is actually 'ricotta' which literally translates 're cook'. so you do it all again and this time you are able to eat fresh. which we did! here it is waiting to be made into the 'naked ravioli' that we made as a group. this was course.... um... i think four of our meal.

our meal really was 13 courses. as we worked diligently making our cheese under the tuscan sun soaking in the extraordinary view of the surrounding countryside we were served, perfect polenta, roasted potato bites along with prosecco.

the meal that followed began with a very thick, almost beady, tuscan 'soup'. followed by the traditional three courses of pasta (including the naked one that we made). two courses of meat a salad, a couple of fruits, then cheese courses and infine three course of dolce' along with, cappuccino! you can also be assured that a wonderful chianti was being poured non stop along with grappa (uck) towards the end. oh my, what a feast! it reminded me 100% of the movie 'babette's feast". oh yes, and the bread they made with yeast they made. yeesh...





not only did the family graciously bring us one course after another. they were so delighted that we were there that the joy of the moment continually caused them to break out into singing and dancing. it was by far one of the richest experiences of my entire life.

it was such a rich experience in conversation. life and fellowship. honestly i was continually choked up during the course of the meal, just thinking, "i wish so deeply in my heart that my father in law Bernie could be experiencing this right now". i knew i was in his homeland and felt his heart in mine.
i was an extra special blessing when Bill (through translation) shared with Sinibaldo that his last name was Chiaravalle. Sinibaldo's response was. "from Abruzzo? Bernardo?" for him to come up with the region that Bill's father's family is from and Bill's dad's first name. it was amazing. he later took Bill outside and pointed out to him the mountainside that his family's origins are just over. a moment never to be forgotten.


as you can imagine by now we are a pretty satisfied group marveling at the day we have just spent. a feast like this does take hours.
well the family was not quite done. we the had a walking tour of their beautiful farm that happens to be covered with 'Etruscan' ruins. it was pretty awe-inspiring to take in the history we were strolling through.


they are also quite certain the ruins were used as hideouts during WW2 because they were not visible when they took ownership of the property. they came upon them in the clearing of the land.




personally i was impressed with the greatness of what they shared with us despite how unassuming their lifestyle was. here where i live, we attempt to create amazing kitchens with appliances that costs the price of a small home in some areas, to show what fantastic hostesses we are.... this family showed us more hospitality and joy than i have experienced in a very long time along with cooking a true feast, in a kitchen with a range the size you would see in an apartment and a fridge the size of one in a dorm room.... the freshness of the food in Italy is something we need to learn all over again. there is something to be said for purchasing what you eat that day or in this case, picking it, milking it or even yes... chopping it up. (o:




i was blown away. this day has had a strong impact on me that i hope not to forget to soon.

on a funny note i just have to share the diversity of our 'tour group.' on our long drive back to the villa just verbally reliving our day over and over we were surprised when cristiano pulled over at a gas station/market type place. come to find out a couple of members of the group had been pleading with him to find a place to buy some 'potato chips and beer.'

okay my personal note to americanos. if you are gonna spend the time and money to travel to other side of this world. embrace it okay... because when you don't, to me and possibly others, you seem an idiot.

mercati e musei

So day six brought a visit to Markets and Museums.

Juri took us into the world of his past the Mercato Centrale of Florence for the grand tour. It is an enormous indoor market that you think, "was this a train station at one time?" No always the indoor market where you can get any kind of fresh food your taste buds could imagine! also some that we tend to not imagine....


the offerings of cured meats, cheeses, aged balsamic, olive oils, limoncello, fresh fruits, pasta, wine, it just goes on and on and on. a cool thing about Italy is that is is very common to see a person at one of these stands with a slice of bread, cheese, meat and a glass of wine. that is really how they eat a snack or light lunch in Italy, standing talking and drinking.




a friend of Juri's who has worked at the market since she was 8. she kept insisting Bill show her the pictures then her response was, eh'. she was intense but in a funny way.

After our tour of the market Bill & i strolled through an outdoor market that happened to be in the city that day. sorry no pics but i can tell you it was filled with leather stands and many other made in Italy type items. Bill bought me a beautiful red leather carry on bag and looked for a 'man bag' for himself but decided against it. (*/*) he thought maybe it wouldn't fly here in Oregon like they do in Italy.

we then headed off to lunch before meeting 'ludie" for our second day of art history lessons. of course along with a fantastic lunch we had to imbibe in our new favorite beverage.


we then strolled around and Bill took more amazing shots of some of the sculptures that are all over in the piazzas and such.







it was now time to meet our group to finally go into the museums and see even more incredible art up close. Michelangelo's David is located in Accademia delle Belle Arti. It is amazing as are the other unfinished Michelangelo sculptors that Bill dearly loved. Unfortunately no picture taking allowed. These shots are of one of the two copies that are in open areas in the city. The are both strikingly beautiful but really do not compare to the real deal. It is fabulous!




Then we were off to the Uffizi Gallery. Again no pictures it is filled with works of art that are ages old. It was a fabulous day of absorbing the culture of a city that is really almost unbelievable.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

città murata cinque giorni

day five brought the opportunity to visit the walled ancient villages of san gimignano and sienna.

they were each amazing cities both completely walled and filled with the beautiful narrow streets that i think are just so cool!
san gimignano is a very small city but it is filled with fantastic shopping options! we were delighted to come upon an outdoor market and browse the wares that were there for the locals just as much as they were for the tourists.

sienna is a much larger city, very large but just as beautiful. it had the most amazing piazza, it was huge! along with an enormous cathedral and duomo of it's own. the spendlor of each of these cities is quite unique. both are time worn but as all of Italy filled with beauty because of their age and elegance.






the enormous city center of sienna. the fountain you see way off in the distance(where the people are gathered around the rectangle shaped gray/white structure) is the same i have detailed in the shots following...



it was a very full and long day. the history is so much to absorb, it is quite overwhelming. we ended the day lost in the narrow streets of sienna for almost 2 hours! it is a huge city an quite a maze! the rain caused us to grow even more weary and then getting stuck in the parking lot once we finally made our way out. sigh......... a long day. we were wiped!

we barely had the energy to chock down the unbelievable steak that the head butcher of florence prepared for us for dinner. it was either our lack of energy or the fact the the meat was EXTREMELY RARE! it was really quite good just hard to.... swallow (pardon the pun) that you were eating something so.... uncooked... oh florentines!

i admit it is not cooked yet in this shot but 5 minutes on each side really did not change it that much!